the car today via UPS. Taking it out of the box, possibilities
glaze my eyes. I think this is going to work! The 6 wheel trucks
come right off along with their cast on couplers. Snap off the
diaphragms on the body ends. The roof comes free with 6 snap
locations. The glazing is contiguous to the roof, so don't try
to snap it off. A bonus is that IHC has left the stirrup steps
and side grabs off of this car. They are included, but not yet
baggage car with clerestory roof
Outfit Car Window (you get 8 per pack)
Standard 4 wheel truck, (part # 9005)
step is to carefully cut the body into 3 pieces. That is
to say, you want to cut off one end just inside the door
jam, and cut the other end right in the middle of the end door.
1) This is the door you will be 'narrowing.'
make the cuts, you will need to cut and file the doors out of
the body. I found this to be probably the hardest part of this
project. Now these doors on the BCW model
measured about 4 1/2 feet and 7 1/2 feet respectively. The ones
on this model measure 8 feet. I'm choosing to go with the 'goodnuff'
approach and make one about 4 feet and make the other about
7 feet. (Actually, my finished openings came out to 4 1/2
feet and 8 scale feet respectively--Amazing!)
This is probably the best time to cut the holes and install
the two little windows per each side of the car. I did this
by laying out the little window frames on the side of the car
and tracing around them. The rivet panels help a little bit
here for alignment. If you count 3 panels over from the center
line, the windows go nicely in the 3rd panel. (See fig.
2) In Don Spiro's article he drills holes on the lines and
cuts between the holes with the proverbial sharp #11 blade.
I recommend this procedure, although you'll still need to make
careful adjustments with the knife.
up the edges and glue the body back together. Use scraps of
styrene to brace the seams from inside. Your main gluing place
will be the floor. The sides will get their bracing when the
doors are installed. On the outside, use white squadron putty
to fill any small gaps and carefully smooth. I was able to simply
smear a little on the spot where the body and end meet with
You will also need to remove the fishbellies. They will be off
center because of the narrowing of the one door. The easiest
way I found was to carefully snap them off with flat nose pliers
and scrape the remainder off with a #17 chisel blade hobby knife
(always use a sharp one.) Keep the other large underbody details.
the fishbellies with 030 thick sheet styrene which I cut to
fit. Basically you want them to run between the truck bolsters
and be about 2 scale feet high. The taper should go from near
nothing to the full height, about 12 scale feet from each end.
most of the clear plastic hanging off the roof. I managed quite
well with a hacksaw blade without its handle. I kept it quite
close under the edge of the roof and sawed carefully. When I
was quite through, I cut down on the corners as to keep the
clear plastic ends in place. (You could also use the rotary
cutting tool of your choice.)
roof in half and remove enough of it from each end so that the
two halves fit on the new body length. Somehow the angel of
modeling hung over my head on this one. Not only did I manage
to cut the roof exactly in half, but when I removed the extra
bits, I ended up with a decent looking clerestory window!
together with styrene bracing underneath. Don't worry about
the clerestory windows as you'll be painting them over anyway.
You do however, need to glue 4x6 strip styrene behind them.
Roof fits the body? Good! Paint it grimy black and put it aside.
Doors and Finishing Details
This great idea came from The Spiro: Make the doors from strip
styrene 4x6, 4x10, and 4x12. Use 4x4 for the window mullions.
4.) glue them together like a puzzle in the corner of a
picture frame with glass in it. After they set, putty and sand
to make smooth like sheet styrene. Make them oversize and cut
them to fit in the spaces, keeping plenty on the sides for gluing.
The ends of the car had diaphragms on them when you bought it.
I trust you got them off and now want to cover up the ragged
glue left behind. Sand the glue down to the plastic and use
styrene to cover up the edges of the doorways. After the glue
sets, file down the ends to meet the car ends. It should be
pretty invisible when painted.
Railway Milk Cars, Vol. 4, by Bob Bahrs, Pg. 34 (2 window)
Railroad in Northwest New Jersey, pg. 216 (4 window)
I Video, Lackawanna Steam, Vol. 1
Paint the underbody grimy black (the roof too, if you haven't
already.) Install the grabs & stirrup steps included with
the car and paint the body Pullman Green. (I use PollyScale
colors almost exclusively, but feel free to substitute at will.)
I then decaled the car with with Prime Mover Decals Decal
set PMD-037 using the instructions from my BCW kit.
Glaze the windows with clear styrene sheet, add security bars
if desired. (Mr. Spiro in his article about his baggage car
recommended using sections of Detail Associates grilles for
GE 8-40B diesel locomotives.)
the car properly using the NMRA
standard (If you wish.) I added 4.5 oz. to bring it up to
their standards. Sign the car somewhere and glue the roof on.
I put Kadee #5 couplers and Eastern Car Works Pullman Standard
4 wheel trucks on my car. While it's about 4 feet longer than
the BCW kit, and a few of the body details differ from the prototype,
it looks like an IHC version of a DL&W clerestory roof baggage
car. Is it perfect? No. Was this a fun project? Yes. Would I
make a second one with 4 windows per side? Perhaps -- eventually.
Am I happy with this car? Heck yes!
Bob Bahrs book, the number of the car is stated to be: 3029.
If you wished to create a 4 window model, there's one
on page 216 of Lackawanna Railroad in Northwest N.J.
that purports to be # 2003