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Index>Modeling >Kits > Boonton Coach Instructions
Instructions for assembling Boonton Coach (Original Release) as supplied by Funaro & Camerlengo
See my page on Slightly detailing an F&C Boonton Coach
Funaro & Camerlengo
R.D. #3
Box 2800
Honesdale, PA 18431Lackawanna Boonton Coach
P-401
This car is composed of polyester castings. Each part is made with a hand filled mold so small imperfections can occur. They are easily filled with modeler's putty or a paste of styrene dissolved in solvent cement. The polyester parts are easily assembled with any gap filling acc type cement *. Our polyester is not metal filled and drills easily with fewer bits. This kit may be assembled without any interior bracing, but we strongly suggest using some on a car that will be handled frequently. All castings should be deflashed before assembly.
* I found 2 part epoxy to work best.
Step 1: Deflash all castings. If the roof has rough areas, polish them smooth with fine emery cloth. Should the roof have a slight twist or warpage, place it in a pan or bucket of very hot water. When it is hot, it becomes more pliable. Before it cools, place it on a flat surface and put some heavy weights on the ends. It will cool flat.
Step 2: Cut 2 lengths of stripwood slightly less than the length of the sides. Polish them smooth with fine steel wool. Cement them with acc cement to the roof using a side as a gauge. See my note on windows. Do not cement the side in place by mistake. Once the bracing is dry, accurately cement the sides in place. Center them on the length of the roof. Make sure the sides do not bow in or out, as it is very difficult to correct a problem once the cement is hard.
Step 3: Carefully file the ends to fit between the sides. Drill the ends for grabirons, bend them to shape and cement the ends in place. Bracing should be added to the inside corners; remember that the floor must recess into the body. I glued the ends onto the sides first then glued the whole shell onto the roof. In either case drill for the grabirons etc. first.
Step 4: Adjust the floor to fit the body. It may be necessary to file the floor to fit. Since this is an open platform car, we suggest cutting the floor such that the platform ends are cemented to the body. See fig. 1. The method to make the remaining section of the floor removable is shown in Fig. 2. Use brass channel with soldered bolts for the sturdiest method. Evergreen strip 1/8" x 1/4", Plastruct angle, or sealed stripwood will also work. Once the floor fits satisfactorily, you may add the cast fishbellies. It will be necessary to cut them to length. Add the small triangular cross supports to the floor. Cement styrene flanges to the top of the fishbellies. Drill the frame center sill for truck screws of your choice. Walthers, Central Valley and Capeline all make suitable trucks. Cement the toolbox in place, form air reservoir from dowel and cement in place. Paint underframe grimy black and set it aside.
Step 5: Drill platform ends for end railings. Cement the platform ends to the body. Assemble step halves as sown in Fig. 3. [Mine were already in one piece] Cut the step sides to fit as shown in Fig. 4 and cement them in place. Drill #78 the end beams for grabirons. Trim them to length and cement them in place. Cut the plastruct I-beams for the end crash bars and drill them for grabirons.
If you wish to add the roof ribs that Boonton cars had when they were built, add them with evergreen HO 1x2. Bend the end railings Note that one end of each end railing is inserted in the platform and the other end is inserted in the crashbar. Insert the railings in the end platforms, mark the position and drill #75 the crashbars for the end railings. Slip the end railings into the crashbars. Secure the crashbars and end railings with acc cement.
Step 6: Paint the body with floquill Pullman Green, and paint the roof Grimy Black. Add decals and a protective finish
