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Index>Modeling
>Kits>DLW Wooden Reefer
Kitbash
Kitbashing
an Old Lackawanna Wood Milk Car
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Photo of Finished Model to Appear Here
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WARNING: The following
dissertation contains modeling methods which may be appalling.
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Bill
of Materials
Evergreen
styrene
- 1"
x 4"
- 1"
x 6"
- 2"
x 2"
- .080"
x 100"
- .020"
car side sheathing
Decals
- Prime
Mover Decals PMD-032
Suggested
photo sources
- Lackawanna
Railroad in the Twentieth Century, Vol. II, Thomas Taber
III, 1981
- Robert
R. Bahrs, Railway Milk Cars, Vol, III pp.3, 5
- Robert
R. Bahrs, Railway Milk Cars, Vol, IV pp.6, 8, 23.
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Don
Spiro and I were talking about the Lackawanna milk cars that predated
the wooden ones we're familiar with. I referred him to page 3 of
Bob Bahrs' milk car book, vol. 3. Here's what Don has suggested
about building this car.
OK
I'm open to page three, cool car, you can see the design of the
later car in this one, both 42 footers.
You definitely have to find one of the MDC/Roundhouse roofs. The
part number from Walthers is 480-2999, they're $2.50 I'd try ordering
one and if not available, it would be worth buying one of the cars
just to get the roof. There are a lot of those still on shelves,
you want the cars out of the "50 Foot Overland Cars W/ Clerestory
Roof" series, should be under ten bucks. The roof is cast so
you can remove a chunk of the roof around the spacing between the
clerestory windows to get close to the 42 foot length. Whaddya suppose
that wire over the end door is for?
(Further
research indicates the 'wire over the door' is the car's emergency
brake cord.)
Evergreen passenger
car siding and .188x .188 strip for inside corner and side bracing.
Remember, you're basically making a box with a top and a bottom. Is
that a sliding door??
Some
.010 sheet for the fascia, hey very cool the M&E lettering.
Poling pockets are made by Westerfield, you want the ones labeled
hopper car poling pockets. If not you can make em out of slices
of styrene rod and bits of sheet styrene. Once you paint them, who
knows? Reverse drop grab irons are interesting to say the least,
could be hard to make.
Trucks
I'd look at Bethlehem Car Works for something close. Queenposts
and truss rods; Grandt Line and .012 wire. Grandt line has delrin
turnbuckles that will fit onto .012 wire! Truck bolsters, again
raid an old Athearn box car or similar car with a separate underframe.
You cut away all the frame and coupler pockets and you just use
the bolster. Easy and cheap. I bet you could find a ships wheel
in a shop that carries shipbuilding details and parts. The buffers
are actually kind of easy. I did a set when I kitbashed a GARE milk
car. Evergreen makes styrene rod in various diameters and you can
get two sizes, drill out the larger and you have the two telescoping
spring pistons, the rest is sheet styrene. If you've never used
Nut/Bolt/Washer [NBW] castings, this is the car to try it on. They
look great but your brain turns to oatmeal drilling all the holes.
Now
if you decide to build this car, one piece of advice, build two
when you do it. You'll have enough of most of the materials anyhow.
You'll also learn a lot about working with styrene. It's amazing
how much and what you can make out of sheet and strip styrene, like
this car.
That
should do it.
Regards
Don
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